Artisan Bread

So who wants to read an idealistic piece all about artisan bread? You do? GREAT because I have one from two years that I have decided to dust off and share with you,

Enjoy




Artisan Bread

The Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary defines an artisan as “a worker who practices a trade or handicraft” and as “one that produces something (as cheese or wine) in limited quantities often using traditional methods.” When I look at those definitions I wonder why the first definition is necessary, to me the idea that an artisan practices a trade or handcraft is intrinsic to the definition because of the phrase “…using traditional methods”. I also find it interesting the dictionary defines the term artisan as it applies to an individual and not as it would apply to a product. Frequently we hear about artisan bread but the dictionary offers no clarification and there is no authority regulating the use of the word artisan as it relates to food products. It could of course be argued an artisan product is one, which is created by an artisan, but due to the ever-extending reach of technology individuals using traditional methods are few and far between. I would argue that an artisan food product is one in that requires skilled labor to produce and is used with a minimal reliance on technology and is carried out in an “Old World manner”.

The article I read outlined how many chain foodservice establishments are switching to artisan style breads. It explains the uses these establishments are finding for artisan bread and where much of this bread originates.

This article is obvious relevant to bakers and chefs alike, the type of bread a restaurant uses can have an impact on many facets of the business. If bread is baked on-premise a full-time baker is required. Artisan breads can also be purchased from artisan bakeries, or purchased frozen and finished on-site by anyone with the ability to put the bread in an oven. Artisan bread is generally more expensive so food costs rise but it can also be sold for more and many times the artisan bread has a higher contribution margin than bread of the non-artisanal variety.

While I am always pleased to see consumers becoming interested in artisan bread and the market for it growing I think we must be careful and know if our artisan bread is truly artisan. Many of the restaurants in the article spoke about purchasing par-baked breads, which arrive frozen, and simply finishing them on-premise. Most par-baked products are produced in commercial bakeries and this means more often than not they are not handmade. These breads use the same recipes as true artisan breads but they are machine shaped, there are no true artisans involved in the process. This type of bread still falls into the category of artisan bread but to me it is not artisan bread. The bread resembles artisan bread in almost every way save its’ soul. I would also argue that to a very knowledgeable consumer these par-baked products can be spotted for what they are due to small differences between bread created from start to finish in an artisan bakery and bread par-baked and finished in a restaurant.

My fear is that one day everyone will eat artisan bread, artisan bread that no true artisan had a hand in. I wish restaurants would purchase bread daily from local artisan bakeries. I wish restaurants would understand there is nothing wrong with purchasing high quality artisan bread; in fact it is a great way to support the local economy. To use par-baked bread solely for the right to say you “baked” the bread in-house is wrong, you are cheating the consumer out of a better dining experience. My hope is consumers will realize this and begin to demand their restaurants offer true, high quality artisan bread from local bakers.